Costa Brava - Sightseeing

This Benedictine Monastery was built in the mountains of the Serra de Roda to protect it against attacks... by Moors or pirates, and it is now an important example of Romanesque and Moorish-Arabian architecture in Spain. The defensive character of the complex is emphasised by a square tower without windows as a counterpart to the belfry which is decorated with blind arcades. The herring bone pattern in the stonework identifies the oldest part of the building, dating back to the 9th century. Over a period of eight centuries, the buildings have been continually extended, with the addition of a church, an upper and lower cloister, a library and a refectory. During its heyday in the 11th century, Sant Pere de Rodes had a famous writing school, and was a spiritual centre where countless illuminated manuscripts were created. One example is the "Bible of Rodes", which is currently kept in the Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris. The convent was surrendered in 1798 and the building plundered. The Castell de Salvador is slightly higher up, and can only be reached on foot, but there is a wonderful view down onto the monastery and the valley. more

The capital of the Comarca Alt Empordà is a strategically positioned commercial and agricultural centre... set back from the Costa Brava. The town centre is dominated by magnificent town houses which date back to somewhere between the 17th and 19th centuries. There are some amazing archaeological findings from the area in the local history museum, Museu de l’Empordà, which also has exhibits on loan from the Prado and the Museum of Modern Art in Madrid. The town's main attraction is the Teatre-Museu Dalí, a lasting memorial to the world-famous surrealist artist. The former municipal theatre has been converted in accordance with Dalí’s own plans and designs, and the result is a successful blend of art, kitsch and irony. The building is really a work of art in itself, with highlights including an abstract portrait of his beloved wife Gala as the back wall of a room, and a living room with furniture arranged in the shape of the face of the actress Mae West. A plain plaque on the floor marks the last resting place of the eccentric Catalan, who was born in Figueres in 1904 and died in 1989. The masterpieces room features important works from Dalí’s private collection. Information: tel. 0034-972677500, http://www.salvador-dali.org. Opening times: 1 Nov-28 Feb Tue-Sun 10.30 am-6 pm, 1 March-31 May Tue-Sun 9.30 am-6 pm, 1 June-30 June daily 9.30 am-6 pm, 1 July-30 Sept daily 9 am-8 pm, 1 Oct-31 Oct Tue-Sun 9.30 am-6 pm, closed 1 Jan and 25 Dec more

The Catalan writer Josep Pla raved about this charming town, in its beautiful setting on a bay surrounded... by wooded slopes: "The best thing about Tossa is its air, its light, its profile, its colour, its life …" Marc Chagall even called it the "Blue Paradise". Villa Vella, the old town which is under historical preservation, was surrounded by walls and towers in the Middle Ages to protect against North-African pirates. Narrow alleyways invite you to take a pleasant stroll, and you can while away the time in restaurants and cafés around the central Plaça Pintor. The Museu Municipal (Municipal Museum) has been set up in the former Governor's Palace on Plaça Roig i Soler and mainly wins visitors over with its department of contemporary art with works by Chagall. The several sandy beaches such as the Platja d’Es Codolar and the Platja Gran on the beach promenade Passeig del Mar are a paradise for water rats. more

The small fishing port of L'Estartit is a typical seaside resort, which is separated from Torroella de... Montgrí by a barren mountain 300 m (almost 1,000 ft) high. The wide sandy beaches stretch out for miles, and are lined with lively promenades full of boutiques, restaurants, souvenir shops, diving schools and surf shops. There are several campsites and countless hotels, offering accommodation to suit any budget. Ascending the Montgri Mountain, on which a defiant fort from the 13th century is enthroned, you will be rewarded with a spectacular view into the far distance - from the Gulf of Pals and the Ter Valley right across to the Pyrenees. The Illes Medes, seven small rocky islands which were declared a nature reserve in 1985, are situated around 1 km (0.6 miles) off the coast. Divers can only observe the highly colourful underwater world in which cuttlefish and jewfish play from 75 m (246 ft) away. You can also visit the unique animal and plant world on a glass-bottomed boat. more

The fishing port of L'Escala is famous for its excellent "anxoves" (anchovies) and wonderful bathing... on a number of beaches. The visitor's attraction is, however, the nearby town of Empúries. The large Greek/Roman town on the Iberian Peninsula has now been declared an archaeological site. The extensive new town (Neapolis) sprawls out to the south of the Greek old town (Palaiapolis), which now only houses the ruins of the Late Gothic Church of Sant Martí. The Temple of Jupiter Serapis, assembly buildings, workshops, dwellings, shops, fish salting houses and cisterns for supplying water spread out from the large market place (Agora). The Asklepieion, the temple to the god of healing, was also an important therapeutic centre. After the Roman conquest in the Second Punic War, the district was expanded to the west. It was here that the forum was built with the Augustus Temple, the Capitol, villas with magnificent mosaics and the southern gate from Caesar's time. The population could celebrate outside the city walls at bloody gladiator games. more

The capital of the province of the same name saw its heyday in the period after 1134, when the County... of Barcelona merged with the Kingdom of Aragon. Girona was besieged more than 30 times, but never successfully, earning itself the name Ciutat dels Setges ("Siege City"). There was a major Jewish community in Girona (El Call) until arson attacks and hate campaigns by the Christian population put an end to their peaceful existence, and they were driven out completely after 1492. The entwining alleys of the old town (Barri Vell) spread out on a hill above the confluence of the Riu Onyar and Riu Ter. A monumental Baroque outside staircase leads up to the cathedral which was built over four centuries starting in 1312. Attached to the choir, the 35 m (115 ft) high and 23 m (75 ft) wide Gothic nave is the widest in Europe - a masterpiece of medieval structural engineering and a breathtaking experience. In addition to the trapezium-shaped Roman crypt with its elaborately adorned capitals, the colourful stained glass windows from the 14th to 16th centuries are also worth seeing. The Arabic Baths (Els Banys Àrabs), which were not built until the end of the 13th century based on North African models, may have been erected on the remains of an Arabic bath house and are a perl of profane Roman architecture. more

This little town lies on the edge of the Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa - a nature reserve which is home... to nearly 30 basalt stones which are up to 160 m (525 ft) high, more than 20 lava fields, crater lakes and explosive craters, making it one of the most impressive volcanic landscapes in Europe. Besalú itself was built in 812 as a residence for Count Wilfried the Hairy, and with its wonderfully preserved town centre is now one of the most beautiful places on the Costa Brava. The greatest landmark of Besalú is the fortified bridge with its two mighty defence towers and a distinctive bend in the middle. Traces of the Jewish community which existed up to the end of the 15th century can be found in the El Call district. The ritual bath (miqwe) originally connected to a synagogue is the only one left in Spain. Snarling lions next to a round arched window adorn the otherwise simple design of the west façade of Sant Pere, the church of a destroyed Benedictine Monastery from the 11th century. more

All in white, Cadaqués nestles at the bottom of wooded hills at the edge of a horseshoe-shaped bay.... René Magritte, Pablo Picasso, Gabriel García Márquez, Henri Matisse, Isaac Albéniz and many other painters, musicians and writers have all come to love the tranquil Mediterranean atmosphere of this little place. Its bars, restaurants, galleries and boutiques, not to mention its lively nightlife, all contribute to making Cadaqués a popular holiday destination during the tourist season for young and old alike. The ruins of the Castell Sant Jaume stand in splendour above the village - a relic of a time in which people had to protect themselves from pirate attacks. The Port Lligat section of the town is home to the Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí, which was formed from three converted fishermen's houses. The artist and his wife lived here from 1948 until Gala's death in 1982. The museum, which is topped with white eggs made of concrete, houses his workshop, his library, his private rooms with the original interiors, the idyllic olive garden and last but not least an amazing collection of surreal works will amaze you. There are restrictions on the number of visitors, therefore book in advance: tel. 0034-972251015, fax. 0034-972251083, pllgrups@dali-estate.org, http://www.salvador-dali.org. more

The Castell Sant Ferran is said to be the largest 18th-century fortification in Europe. Its construction... took almost half a century (1753-1792). The structure has an outer rampart that is over 3 kilometers (about 2 miles) long. A second, inner wall is over 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) long. The 8 cisterns are connected via a wide network of subterranean waterways, which carry 1200 m³ of water. Right after its completion, the French captured the fort and gave it the epithet “La Belle Inutile” – the useless beauty - a name history would prove fitting. During the Peninsular War, Napoleon held the fort under occupation. The fortress retained its military function until the 20th century. In the summer, the waterways and cisterns can be explored via guided rafting tours. more

The flat mouth of the Muga and Fluvià rivers at the Gulf of Roses used to be called Aiguamolls (shallow... water) by locals. Throughout thousands of years, the rivers have unloaded their sediment here, changing their course again and again. Backwaters were cut off and created small lakes, which silted up bit by bit. In coastal areas sand dunes formed. Thus, diverse landscapes evolved within a minimum of space and became home to a rich flora and fauna. Large parts of the Aiguamolls have been drained. The remaining wetland was declared a preservation area in 1983. The 4800 ha (12.000 acre) park is divided into two separate parts by the lagoon town Empúriabrava. The natural preserve is accessible via several hiking and biking trails. Brochures are available at the information center El Cortalet. more

The Dalí Museum in Figueres is one of the most frequently visited art museums in Spain. After the civil... war, Salvador Dalí turned his hometown’s destroyed theater into a museum. After a 13-year construction period it opened its doors in 1974. The façade alone is exceptional. It is topped by enormous eggs. The center and surely the highlight is the former theater hall. The ceiling of the auditorium was replaced by a glass dome. Thus, a light-flooded atrium was created. Just as Dalí had expected, the museum not only puts his works on display, it is also a work of art in itself. The master himself was put to rest in the museum’s crypt after his death in 1989. Nightly visits are especially impressive. In August, visitors can take in the atmosphere of the artworks from 10 pm to 1 am. more

Greeks founded the commercial settlement Emporion here in the Gulf of Roses back in 600 BC. The oldest... part of the settlement was located on an island outside of today’s archeological excavation site. Nothing is left of it. Today, the medieval city of Sant Marí d’Empúries is located at the site of the first settlement, which meanwhile is connected to the mainland. Around 500 BC, the city of Neapolis was founded on the mainland. The influx of more and more settlers required space. Through the south gate, which for a long time was the only entryway into the city, visitors still gain access into the former city. In the beginning of the Second Punic War in 218 B.C., Romans formed a military base in Emporion. While Greeks lost more and more power, the Romans continued to expand the city and, from that point on, called it Emporiae. The city received a forum, an amphitheater and other public institutions. A brochure, which is available at the register, facilitates orientation. more

Bagur is very popular even among locals, who enjoy spending the weekend or summer in the picturesque... town with its bustling historic center. The town of Bagur, situated 200m (650 feet) above sea level at the foot of a mountain cone, can be seen from miles away. The fortress on the peak provided protection against pirate attacks. It was first mentioned in documents dating back to 1079. The ascent to the castle is worth it due to the breathtaking view. Begur is known for its Casas Indianos, with their colonial style and beautiful arcades. The contractors were previous inhabitants who migrated to Latin America in the 19th century and returned wealthy in old age. They substantially contributed to Begur’s wealth, which today depends largely on tourism. On the coast, secluded bays beckon bathers. more

Salvador Dalí’s life in Port Lligat began in 1930, when he bought a small fisherman’s cottage. In... the course of decades more and more adjacent houses were added, which Dalí connected to his labyrinthine estate. Save for a few interruptions, it was here that Dalí lived and worked with his wife Gala until his death in 1982. Visitors are afforded an intimate view into the life and work of an exceptional artist. Many of his most famous works were created here. Visits are strictly regulated and there is a sophisticated security system. Only groups of a maximum of 10 persons are allowed to enter at 10-minute intervals. more

The city, initially founded by Romans, was presumably a bishop’s see until its capture by the Moors.... After its recapture, Castelló was the capital of the County of Empúries until the 14th century and thus was one of the most significant cities of Catalonia. The quaint townscape and line of the road have largely been preserved. Parts of the city wall, which was once equipped with seven gates, can still be seen. Many of the houses were restored during the past years. Thus, the picturesque town is a popular destination for daytrips to the coast. The three-naved Basilica Santa Maria towers above Castellé d’Empúries. Also preserved is a bell tower with characteristic pillar arcades, remnants of the 1064 Roman predecessor of the church found here today. From the 13th century on, the Counts of Empúries ordered the structure to be rebuilt in Gothic style. They wanted Castelló to be converted back into a bishop’s see. Though the plan failed, the enormous basilica is often called Catedral de l’Empordà. more

The castle was first mentioned in a document dating back as far as the 11th century. The site and foundation... walls, however, date back to the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1969, Salvador Dalí bought the dilapidated castle as a gift to his wife Gala. The grounds include a romantic wild garden and a picturesque courtyard. Dalí designed the interior rooms with his wife in mind, who preferred a more modest home. Nonetheless, the famous surrealist’s handwriting is clearly recognizable. After his wife’s death in 1982, Dalí moved into the castle. His last painting was created here in 1983. After being badly injured in a fire in his bedroom, Dalí moved back to Figueres, the city of his birth. more

About 1.5 km (almost 1 mile) from the coast of L’Estartit lie the Medes Islands. Two larger islands,... Meda Gran and Meda Petita, as well as five smaller islands for the 23 ha (57-acre) natural preserve. A 75 m (246-foot) protection zone surrounds the archipelago. In the 1980s, the formerly rich ocean fauna around the islands had been decimated to such a degree that the fishermen of L’Estartit could barely extract any fish from their former fishing grounds. The formerly rich coral reefs, exploited since the 18th century, had already been depleted in the 1950s. Since 1983, the archipelago has been placed under strict protection. These actions have proven to be very successful. Today, the waters are once again rich with fish life. Lobster, horn coral and red coral have returned. Numerous services in L’Estartit offer diving and snorkeling cruises. more

The intriguing terraced landscape garden covers an area of 8 ha (20 acres). Visitors can admire over... 500 different plant species, most of them native to the Mediterranean area, as well as subtropical species and a large cactus garden. The founder of the facility is the Russian colonel Woevodsky, who immigrated to Spain with his British wife after the October Revolution. His castle-like mansion stands in the middle of the magnificent garden. Today, the garden belongs to the bank Caixa Girona, which hosts the festival Jardins de Cap Roig every summer. It features nationally and internationally acclaimed jazz musicians, pop stars and singer-songwriters. Additionally, contemporary sculptors are provided the opportunity to display their work. more

Due to its large variety of plant species (about 4,000 from all over the world), this park ranks among... Europe’s most important botanical gardens. The extraordinarily charming grounds also make it worth a visit. The affluent merchant Karl (Carles) Faust (1874-1952) from Hadamar in Hesse, who lived in Barcelona, founded the garden in 1921. Using his own financial assets, he expanded it in collaboration with the Catalonian botanist Pius Font i Quer. A special focus was placed on native flora. This is also reflected in the garden’s name, Mar i Murtra (Catal. for ocean and myrtle). Shortly before his death, Faust created a trust, which now looks after the facility. Hundreds of thousands of visitors come here each year to enjoy the Mediterranean, subtropical and tropical plant life. more

This important Iberian archeological excavation site is located on the hill Puig de Sant Andreu, formerly... above a lake and thus easy to defend. The lake was drained in the 19th century, but fills up again during strong rains. Mighty protective walls of irregularly hewn blocks of stone, reinforced with round towers, have been surrounding the city since the 6th century BC. The surprisingly well-preserved wall of the relatively easily accessible and thus especially fortified western side of the structure has been almost completely excavated. Along the main road, several side roads branch off, leading to the foundations of the oftentimes two-storied houses. The settlement’s golden age lasted into the 3rd century BC. In the beginning of the 2nd century BC, when the Romans began their colonization of the country, the Iberians left their city. Not until the 20th century did archeologists discover the city. They began the excavation in 1947. An attached museum displays their finds. more